With the summer sun working in overdrive, it’s time to yield to the call of sandy beaches and cool ocean breezes. Consider an escape to Martha’s Vineyard, seven miles off the coast of Cape Cod. With its clam shacks, weathered shingled cottages, and authentic fishing villages, Martha’s Vineyard has everything you could ask for in a beach-town getaway (from bikes and surf to handmade ice cream). So pack a bikini, a good beach read, and sunscreen, then hit the Vineyard for a dose of New England charm.
Most people reach Martha’s Vineyard by ferry (www.hy-linecruises.com), and it is easy to get around the island without a car. Just station yourself near one of three central hubs: funky, offbeat Vineyard Haven; traditional Edgartown, known for its white clapboard captains’ homes; or lively Oak Bluffs, Martha’s Vineyard’s party center.
Where to stay:
Cozy up: Hob Knob Inn. This elegant boutique hotel on Edgartown’s Main Street has a shady wraparound porch. Bonus: The innkeepers serve a complimentary breakfast of home-baked scones in their sunlit dining room. Rooms from $300 per night; 128 Main Street, Edgartown; 508.627.9510; www.hobknob.com.
Comfortable convenience: The Mansion House. This luxury inn is located just a short walk from the ferry terminal in Vineyard Haven. It also has a spa and full-service restaurant, Zephrus, where you can grab a seat outdoors and nosh on New England favorites such as fish-and-chips, mussels, or lobster rolls. Rooms from $279 per night; 9 Main Street, Vineyard Haven; 888.210.4504; www.mvmansionhouse.com.
Where to eat
Diner dishes: Art Cliff Diner. The Black Dog Café is a notorious icon, but swing by their bakery in Vineyard Haven for a T-shirt, then head across the street to the Art Cliff Diner to eat instead. Try the scrumptious breakfast BLT (spinach, scrambled eggs, and bacon on toasted brioche) or crispy fish tacos with homemade salsa. 39 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven; 508.693.1224.
Dinner with a view: Home Port. Located in the fishing village of Menemsha, Home Port is famous for its “backdoor” dinner. Order Quahog chowder and steamed lobster from the takeout window, then picnic on the beach while watching the sun set. 512 North Road, Menemsha; 508.645.2679.
Where to drink:
Pints up: The Offshore Ale Co. Located in Oak Bluffs, this pub is a welcome stop for house-brewed aromatic IPAs and nut brown ale. 30 Kennebec Avenue, Oak Bluffs; 508.693.2626.
New England notable: Newes From America. This subterranean Colonial-style pub is an Edgartown favorite for its cozy, old-world-tavern vibe (the exposed-beam ceiling and brick walls help to set the scene). Order the “rack” of beers—a sampling of five brews. 23 Kelley Street, Edgartown; 508.627.4397.
Where to shop:
Summer glam: Nochi. This shop is a true hodgepodge of merchandise. Among their inventory you’ll find fresh cut flowers, housewares, and high-end women’s clothes like June leather jackets and Stewart + Brown cashmere sweaters. 29 Main Street, Vineyard Haven; 508.693.9074.
It’s in the Bag. Conveniently positioned across the street from Nochi, this boutique is known for its stylish accessories like crocheted headbands and gold clutches. 58 Main Street, Vineyard Haven; 508.693.4733.
Where to chill out:
Biker’s bliss: Seaview Avenue. The best way to explore Martha’s Vineyard is by bike, pedaling the scenic paths hugging the coastline. A good route is along Seaview Avenue between Oak Bluffs and Edgartown (six miles), where a paved path winds over flat terrain along the Joseph Sylvia State Beach, with its fantastic views.
Killer view: Gay Head. Don’t miss a detour across the island to the red clay cliffs of Aquinnah, or Gay Head, a national landmark. The brick Gay Head Lighthouse is open for sunset tours June through September.
Sun lover’s solace: Chappy. The beaches on the island of Chappaquiddick—Chappy, as its called by locals—are a well-kept secret. The island is just off the coast of the Vineyard, accessible by a short ferry ride from Dock Street in Edgartown (www.chappyferry.net).
